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I'm considering building a rode storage bin in the port seat between B4 and B5 similar to Noddy's. It'd be about 10" deep and about 4 inches wide. I'd cut the seat so it had a cover just like over the centerboard trunk.

Seeking advice and or pictures of others who have built similar containers.

Did you put drain holes at the bottom? Did you cut all the way back to B6 like on Noddy? Is there a thread already that i missed?

Thanks.

I elected to utilize the more or less unusable for much else spaces under the seats aft of bulk 7. Here is why.

1. Anchor rode comes up wet and many times muddy. The last place I want to deal with wet or muddy anchor rode is precisely where the best seating is and at the interface between cockpit and cuddy.
2. Instead of cutting out the seat top and building in a box amidship I installed two anchor hawse pipes one for each rode locker. The hawse pipes were something like $15 each from Defender, quick and simple.

I think its smart to carry two anchors rigged and ready. One a main anchor and one a lighter lunch hook. So one anchor and rode is on each side of the boat aft and out of the way. These two rigged and ready anchors can be deployed separately fore and aft or both forward in a Bahamian moor set up.

Hope this helps.

Howard - good thoughts as always. Do you have any photos of how you arranged things? I'm not visualizing where you have the anchor hawse pipes installed. And do the anchors themselves fit under seat behind B7, or are they stored elsewhere? Thanks!

Hi Dave

WoodnMetalGuy wrote:Howard - good thoughts as always.
Thank you, as they say "even a blind squirrel finds an acorn now and again."

Do you have any photos of how you arranged things?
Dave my boat is upside down at the moment and I am a long way from the shop at a sustainable development conference. I can post a photo after I flip her back over.

I'm not visualizing where you have the anchor hawse pipes installed.

***They are installed on the seat tops in my boat but you (if you have the standard cockpit arrangement) install them on the seat longitudinal faces. I have built in an aft lazarette, which precludes me from mounting them on the sides of the seat longitudinals. So I haven't thought through the side mounting to determine if there would be an issue with doing so but the location seems OK at first thought. You could install them n the seat tops over the compartments because that area of seating is not used for seating while sailing (never good to get pinned behind the tiller) but could be used for seating while at anchor or the dock. This is why I have suggested the possibility of the sides.
And do the anchors themselves fit under seat behind B7, or are they stored elsewhere?
*** My anchors are stored elsewhere as part of an anchoring system.
Thanks!

Dave
A couple of elements I missed when describing my aft anchor rode wells. I also installed a 4" Beckson round port next to each hawse pipe. These will allow me to easily gain access to the two wells should there be a knot or snag in the anchor rode. I closed the two holes in each side of bulkhead 7 and each of the wells drains into my cockpit footwell.

pocketyacht wrote:Hi Dave

WoodnMetalGuy wrote:Howard - good thoughts as always.
Thank you, as they say "even a blind squirrel finds an acorn now and again."

Do you have any photos of how you arranged things?
Dave my boat is upside down at the moment and I am a long way from the shop at a sustainable development conference. I can post a photo after I flip her back over.

I'm not visualizing where you have the anchor hawse pipes installed.

***They are installed on the seat tops in my boat but you (if you have the standard cockpit arrangement) install them on the seat longitudinal faces. I have built in an aft lazarette, which precludes me from mounting them on the sides of the seat longitudinals. So I haven't thought through the side mounting to determine if there would be an issue with doing so but the location seems OK at first thought. You could install them n the seat tops over the compartments because that area of seating is not used for seating while sailing (never good to get pinned behind the tiller) but could be used for seating while at anchor or the dock. This is why I have suggested the possibility of the sides.
And do the anchors themselves fit under seat behind B7, or are they stored elsewhere?
*** My anchors are stored elsewhere as part of an anchoring system.
Thanks!

Howard,

Please include photos and anchoring system explanation when you get your boat flipped back over. I'm very interested in the size, shape and storage location of the anchors, as well as the line attachment points and length of the anchor rode. I too, have elected to seal off BH7 openings and would like to utilize this area of the boat as you have described.

Brent
buildingshackelton.wordpress.com

Hi Brent
OK
I can start with this. There are many good anchor types to choose from and choices like this are quite personal so my selection will likely get some eyes rolling.

#2 is set up with:

A 13lb Northill folding anchor with chain as my main hook.
My 2nd anchor is a 6lb Northill folding anchor with 9 feet of chain. Seems I like Northills.
My lunch hook is a very clever small folding fisherman circa 1888, with chain.
Northills and fisherman style anchors have proven very effective across a range of bottom types (mud, sand, aggregate mixes, etc).

I may at times also carry a very small Bruce depending on where I am sailing.

Unfortunately Northills are no longer made but can be found if one looks for them. I believe wyosuds picked one up on eBay.

There are two types of Northill anchors, which were designed for seaplanes. The standard and the stainless, both fold. The stainless is a bit more compact in how it folds but in the end is a larger overall sized anchor and in my opinion not suitable for a small boat like a SCAMP. I have opted for the standard model and have great confidence in the design having used them for many years.

I organized and conducted an anchor test (very limited and not comprehensive) with 7 different types of anchors (wyosuds was on on this) and the two clear winners were (hands down and seemingly equal in effectiveness) the Northill and the Rocna.

More later on the set up. I have not fully settled on the anchor stowage set up as I am holding off on the final decision until I sea trial. I have already built in some elements of the system and believe it will work, sea trials will tell.

Hope this helps.

Brent65 wrote:Howard,

Please include photos and anchoring system explanation when you get your boat flipped back over. I'm very interested in the size, shape and storage location of the anchors, as well as the line attachment points and length of the anchor rode. I too, have elected to seal off BH7 openings and would like to utilize this area of the boat as you have described.

Brent
buildingshackelton.wordpress.com

Howard wrote:

Unfortunately Northills are no longer made but can be found if one looks for them. I believe wyosuds picked one up on eBay.

I was able to find two of the 6# Northills on Craigslist. I have relatives in Boston, Miami, Palo Alto, Seattle and Minnesota so I concentrated my search on those areas, I live in Wyoming and didn't even bother to check here. I found mine in Rochester Minnesota where we have good friends and had them pick it up for me. In a confirmation of a small world our friends knew the seller. It was $45. We visit there each Thanksgiving so I'll be picking it up this month. I found another in Washington state but too far from anyone I knew to pick it up.

It took me three weeks of searching to find them but $45 is far less expensive than most of the anchors sold new. As Howard pointed out this anchor was a top performer in holding power and it's ability to reset quickly after being pulled loose say by a shifting wind or tide.

I'm not far enough into my build to have designed my anchor system but I think anchor rode storage in the rear compartments is a well thought out plan.


John S.

Howard, I like your idea of storing the rode in the aft wells with a drain to the sump, but think it might be a good idea to design this drain so it could be plugged when not draining so as to maintain the flotation in these compartments. Just a thought. --Will

Screw-in plugs from the outside. In a capsize water pressure might blow in rubber stopper plugs. Since the tops of these compartments will not be sealed for water tightness. When the boat is on its side or inverted, you want a bubble of air to be captured to displace water entering.