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Sat Feb 07, 2015 5:50 pm

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"Normal Use" probably varies greatly from one person/boat to another, for Fat Bottom Girl she is often pulled up on a beach or bank. There have been times she has sat on the bottom at low tide. She has not really sailed in rocky areas. In examining her, the first three feet of the chines have some spots 1/4 -3/8" wide where the paint has worn off, but the epoxy and fiberglass is in very good shape. Her bottom is not painted, just has graphite added to the epoxy and is in very good shape other than some surface scratches.

If I were to do any reinforcement in this area on my boat (which I am not sure I would) considering how I use the boat, I personally would not due anything more than two inch fiberglass tape on the first four feet of the chines. Beyond the first four feet, the skegs appear to take most of the abuse.

Marty.



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Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:57 pm

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In the San Francisco Bay area I routinely beach on course sand. I've repainted the bow 4 or five times. but no damage to the glassed area. I did use Dynel over glass in that area, along with the bottom portion of the centerboard and rudder. I had, in the past had good experiences with Dynel. It took me a while to get it's use right. The product absorbs a surprising amount of epoxy and thickens several times it's original thickness. Additionally, it's surface cures fairly rough. I would sand off this roughness and finish. That's wrong. The roughness should be filled with epoxy. That's partially where it gets it abrasion resistance. I used to use it on the ends of Greenland style paddles. Sanding it off with course sandpaper and a power sander is nearly impossible.....witch is encouraging. What I really know it that it gives me peace of mind when I hear the grinding during a little too fast beaching.

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Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:28 pm

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Here in Wyoming most of the lakes and reservoirs were carved out by glaciers and there is an abundance of rocks. I will be thinking hard about strengthening both the abrasion and puncture resistance as I progress on my build. It will be easier to add now in the bare hull stage than any other time.

I doubt however that I will ever use my scamp as an ice breaker. Until global warming renders the Northwest Passage more temperate, I'll let Howard relate the tales of his icy expedition in whatever sea it may be.

I agree the choice of how to sheath scamp is a matter of personal use, time, cost and choice.

John S.



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Sun Feb 08, 2015 9:53 am

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Thanks Rick for the tips re dynel. I think I've got my recipe figured out. And with the additional layers of glass and dynel and coats and taped joints and graphite and paint (or not) up forward, when I hang a couple of anchors off the stern, she should come right back onto her lines.

Just kidding of course. I do think that if you contemplate ever beaching this boat, toughening the front area against abrasion is a very good idea. I've also doubled the garboard plank (on the inside) between b-1 and b-2, although when I asked JW about that idea at the scamp workshop in August, he just rolled his eyes and shrugged his shoulders. Seems to me that if you're going to hit an object in the water (think submerged log--or chunk of ice) that's where the impact is going to be. Again, thanks all for the ideas and information. --Will



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Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:28 pm

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Correction on the last post--doubled the bottom half of garboard plank--not whole plank. --Will



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Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:48 pm

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SCAMP as spec'd with 6oz glass on the bottom and a little care taken at the bow with 2" tape is just fine. This "as spec'd" is true for the rest of the build as well. Respectfully to all who are contemplating deviating from the plans and manual its best to do so in a minimal way perhaps just personalizing here and there. There is nothing wrong with a strong bottom but perhaps the bottom is strong enough as spec'd in the manual given how most folks actually use a small sailing boat.

There actually isn't anything I have read here regarding bottom hardening methods that seems wrong, perhaps just not necessary but hey to each his/her own.

* I guess I'd hate to see inexperienced builders who read here or folks thinking about SCAMP as a possible boat to get the idea she is not strong enough as spec'd.

I had a hand in building Marty's Fat Bottom Girl and as far as I know she is very close to stock and look what Marty has done with her and continues to do. I have sailed a number of stock SCAMP's with standard bottom finishes and they work spot on.

I may have sailed the 100% stock SCAMP #1 more than anyone else (as always Thank you Josh), have capsized her many times during testing and when giving lessons, have driven her hard in heavy air dropping her off wave tops with resounding shuddering thuds, had more than a thousand pounds of pay load aboard on more than one occasion, over nighted aboard her, dragged her up on rough beaches and she is just fine to this day.

Of course all this said I am near the top of the customization mad man list;-) but this has been my stated purpose since purchasing my kit. I got into the SCAMP world because I picked the design (over my own) as a platform to create a rugged voyaging boat so I will give myself a pass. I also purchased kit #3 (both kits purchased before #1 was finished) because I knew the design was going to be excellent and excellent as is. #3 will be a "nearly" stock SCAMP.



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Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:56 pm

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I'm in the process of glassing the bottom of #284. I am following Howard's suggestion of 3" tape, then 2" tape on the stem.
Then I'll use 60" wide 6 oz. fabric from a local Tap Plastic store. That will cover all except about 2 inches of the garboard at the beam.

I was even clever enough to remember to not fillet the first chine. I'll cut the glass at the chine and the fillet will cover the ragged tape edge. Except right at the beam, where I'll have to fair that. It shouldn't be too bad.

I don't plan to use any extra dynel or glass the transom (other than a couple inches up.

I considered taping the bottom to garboard joint, but figured that would be under 6 oz of glass anyway, so decided not to bother.
That joint was a real pain to fair out.

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Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:04 pm

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Jeff
embeds below***

Have you glassed yet?
I have a suggestion if you haven't.

ElHeffe wrote:
I'm in the process of glassing the bottom of #284. I am following Howard's suggestion of 3" tape, then 2" tape on the stem.
Then I'll use 60" wide 6 oz. fabric from a local Tap Plastic store. That will cover all except about 2 inches of the garboard at the beam.

***You could reorient the cloth (60" equals 5') and cover the bottom and the full garboards. This would give you two transverse seams on the bottom. Butt the cloth edges carefully and they will be strong and easy to fair to smooth.

I was even clever enough to remember to not fillet the first chine. I'll cut the glass at the chine and the fillet will cover the ragged tape edge. Except right at the beam, where I'll have to fair that. It shouldn't be too bad.

***I suggest that you do fillet the chine to a nice concave round. Then glass to the outer edge of the plank and trim the nearly cured glass overhang with a razor blade. This will give a better result than trying to glass into the hard inner corner of the chine, which is also curve along its length. You can then use a little fillet on a finger to fill the weave of the cloth and then sand to a very uniform finish. I used this method with my build and was very pleased with the outcome.

I don't plan to use any extra dynel or glass the transom (other than a couple inches up.

***The SCAMP transom is actually out of the water so you can lap up onto it with just an inch with glass and be fine.

I considered taping the bottom to garboard joint, but figured that would be under 6 oz of glass anyway, so decided not to bother.
That joint was a real pain to fair out.


Last edited by pocketyacht on Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:56 am, edited 2 times in total.


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Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:26 pm

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No, I haven't glassed yet. I just put the 3" tape on and the 2" will go on later tonight.

Definitely open to suggestions.

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Aug 2014 SCAMP Camp
http://building284.blogspot.com



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Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:03 pm

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Jeff
My suggestions appear in your last post.
ElHeffe wrote:
No, I haven't glassed yet. I just put the 3" tape on and the 2" will go on later tonight.

Definitely open to suggestions.



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