Scamp #326 build, from plans.

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knasman
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by knasman »

Lindsay,

Nice work! In response to your CB pendant attachment, I drilled a hole aft of the upper corner (in raised position), right into the centerline of the CB. Then Drilled a hole from side to side at the inner end of the first hole. This makes a "T" shaped set of holes. After you epoxy seal and finish the board, the pendant snakes its way through the CB case end log and into the "leg" of the T. When it hits the top of the T, grab a screw driver and push it out one side. Tie an overhand knot in it, trim the excess and then tug it back into the T. The size of the leg of the T should have a finished size a little bit larger diameter than the line. The top of the T needs to be bigger to accommodate the knot going into the CB. I don't recall being inventive about this, so look the plans over.

It works well to carve a little channel around the top of the CB where the line wraps around it. Make sure you line up your hole in the end log for good alignment. I got a piece of copper from the DIY store and flared the ends to use as a grommet inside the end log. Make sure you flare it well so there is no abrasion. I've already replaced that line once, and thereby tested the reversal of the knot out of the CB. Simple and works well.

And a tip for those of you with trailers that accommodate it - line up the boat so that the CB slot is over the bunk board. Then after the boat is on the trailer, lower the CB onto the padded bunk board. The trade off being the wear on the line as the boat is vibrated down the road versus the wear on the end of the CB. Note: don't just leave the line loose though, put it back in the cam cleat. One of our ilk had his CB drop for a nice multi-mile sanding down on the pavement.

Another tip: A few of us have drilled holes through the back ends of the skegs to run tie down lines through. I made mine nice and big so that it would be easy to re-epoxy and paint. I now have the bow eye and the loop through the skegs as the tie downs - no boards or belly straps! It turns out that had an additional benefit of allowing me to loop the line around the bunk board and through the hole twice, pinning the boat near the board so that my CB can't fall off the board.

Yes, there has been discussion of the drag induced by the holes. I've sailed many miles tack for tack with Dale's Luna. If there is any plus minus on any of the differences between our boats, I'll be damned if I can identify any speed differences. Sometimes he creeps by me, sometimes I creep by him. If racing is that important to you, you are working with the wrong boat. BTW, the best times sailing have been when we are going along 20 ft apart. It's more fun when I sail close enough to Dale for him to hand me a beer :-)

Keep up the good work!
Keith Nasman
SCAMP Zephyr #161
headonz
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by headonz »

Thanks for the tips Keith.I will go with either a T or L with a knot.Seems like the best and simplest option.No point in over complicating matters.Be a few days before I get back to that , just closing in the cabin and fore deck at the moment.
headonz
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by headonz »

A bit more timber up front for those people who want to ride the fore deck :)
DPP_0001.JPG
Surprising how much the 6mm cabin top firms up when stressed into that curve.The hole boat has taken on a very solid feel over this last week.
DPP_0003.JPG
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by headonz »

A few more pics....
DPP_0014.JPG
Rather than plot out the decks on sheets of ply I just used left over pieces ,lay them on the framing and scribed the outer inner edges.Once glued down trimmed off with the router.2 pieces butt joined with rebated edge then several layers of 50mm tape and epoxy.
DPP_0002.JPG
DPP_0013.JPG
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Last edited by headonz on Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
headonz
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by headonz »

Back piece is 2 x 9mm glued using transom as form then removed and ends taken down to angle required with belt sander.Back edge rebated to take top of transom.I left the piece wide until I decide what looks best.
DPP_0013.JPG
DPP_0014.JPG
DPP_0015.JPG
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headonz
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by headonz »

Boy am I sick of sanding epoxy !!

But finally I think I am ready for PAINT :o :lol:

I didnt plot out the skegs as per plans but glued down one 40 x 10 H3 to the hull then next day glued and tacked down another to it.Next day I glued and screwed 3 , 40 x 10 pieces to the the first 2.Then added several short pieces
to form the rear skeg that tapered to 4, 40 x 10 pieces thick at the rear.

Then 3 layers of 6oz glass either side and thickened epoxy to form the fillet.
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simeoniii
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by simeoniii »

Nice job you are doing Lindsay!
Simeon
Voyaging with Noddy, #11
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by headonz »

Thank you Simeon , but I have to say now that I have several coats of white paint on the hull it sure shows up every imperfection !!

I am going to take the - keep applying coats till I run out of paint - approach ,and see how it looks :)
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by dndrich »

headonz wrote:Thank you Simeon , but I have to say now that I have several coats of white paint on the hull it sure shows up every imperfection !!

I am going to take the - keep applying coats till I run out of paint - approach ,and see how it looks :)
Ooh. That is concerning. I figured the painting would help me with that!! Hmm. My build will definitely look home made...
Daniel
SCAMP #330 Wildflower
Sebastopol, CA USA
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Re: Scamp #326 build, from plans.

Post by Bcbimmer »

Sorry to say more coats will not hide the dips and dents. Either accept them or fair and fill. If you are on your first coat, you can sand it all off with a fairing board leaving just the low spots with paint. Fill with fairing compound and repeat until no more low spots. If you already have a few coats, add another coat of a slightly different shade and then sand that off to highlight the problem areas. If you are doing this with under oats that are flat it can look perfect. When you add the high gloss top coats you will find more. Or you can just think of them as beauty marks. If you have a few dings at the start you will not feel so bad about all the ones you get from everyday use and trailer rubs.

Cheers,

Dan
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