Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
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- Jason Builder
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Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Well, I have been sanding and sanding and sanding. After many hours of sanding the cockpit and interior of the forward section of the boat, I am happy with the result and ready to start applying finishes to the interior and cockpit.
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-Jason
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
- Jason Builder
- Regular Contributor
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:05 pm
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Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Hi Everyone,
August has been a productive month! I am in a race against the clock as nights are dipping into the mid 50's and I am starting to get worried about having good painting temps, when I get the boat flipped bottom side up. The cockpit interior is done, and I added a 6" deckplate in the aft sole section, for ventilation and inspection (as advised by Howard, thanks). I wanted to get the cockpit interior painted and varnished prior to attaching the deck, so with that done, I have just attached the deck and cabin sides. I figured that I would either epoxy&glue the deck OR epoxy and fillet the underside of the deck joints; I decided to epoxy and screw the deck down, but I will not be filleting the under deck joints.
Cheers!
August has been a productive month! I am in a race against the clock as nights are dipping into the mid 50's and I am starting to get worried about having good painting temps, when I get the boat flipped bottom side up. The cockpit interior is done, and I added a 6" deckplate in the aft sole section, for ventilation and inspection (as advised by Howard, thanks). I wanted to get the cockpit interior painted and varnished prior to attaching the deck, so with that done, I have just attached the deck and cabin sides. I figured that I would either epoxy&glue the deck OR epoxy and fillet the underside of the deck joints; I decided to epoxy and screw the deck down, but I will not be filleting the under deck joints.
Cheers!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Jason
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
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Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Jason, you're going to love that footwell!
Brent Butikofer
Scamp: Hagoth
https://buildinghagoth.wordpress.com
Scamp: Shackleton
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Pocketship:
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Never Stop Learning or Exploring
Scamp: Hagoth
https://buildinghagoth.wordpress.com
Scamp: Shackleton
https://buildingshackelton.wordpress.com
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https://idahopocketship.wordpress.com
Never Stop Learning or Exploring
- Jason Builder
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Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Thanks Brent, I am following your progress on Hagoth; nice work! Watching the other ongoing SCAMP builds is keeping me on my toes....
Slow progress continues in the midst of work and family life, and at this point I will need to heat the garage to finish the Argo before 2018. The garage isn't insulated, heating would be quite inefficient, so I will need to make a call on this over the next month. I am really enjoying building this boat. The boating season will start wrapping up here shortly, so I won't be putting in big sailing hours till next year anyway.
Roof is on and I am working on Coaming/Coaming Cap.
Slow progress continues in the midst of work and family life, and at this point I will need to heat the garage to finish the Argo before 2018. The garage isn't insulated, heating would be quite inefficient, so I will need to make a call on this over the next month. I am really enjoying building this boat. The boating season will start wrapping up here shortly, so I won't be putting in big sailing hours till next year anyway.
Roof is on and I am working on Coaming/Coaming Cap.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Jason
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
- Jason Builder
- Regular Contributor
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:05 pm
- Contact:
Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Bonjour fellow Scampers...
Got the cockpit coaming cap installed today. I simultaneously installed flying buttresses around the oarlock. Past experience leads me to pursue a very stout oarlock structure. Repeating loading cycles, and occasionally very high loads on oarklocks, put significant strain on fittings and fasteners. As I looked at the coaming, I thought some solid reinforcement was in order around the oarlocks.
I designed some gussets, and cut them from solid mahogany, with the grain diagonal/in line with the hypotenuse of the gusset. I then cut out an ample scupper, which made the final piece look like a flying buttress to me.
I cut them on the bench-top bandsaw, and had a nice evening carving the edges while the kids watched a movie.
For installation, I drilled two 3/8" holes and epoxied in 3/8" diameter hardwood pins into the end-grain of the bottom of these gussets. Into the deck, I drilled matching holes for the these pins to enter. Along the coaming, I epoxied and filleted the buttresses.
The oak support piece, mahogany cap, and buttresses are installed as of tonight.
Got the cockpit coaming cap installed today. I simultaneously installed flying buttresses around the oarlock. Past experience leads me to pursue a very stout oarlock structure. Repeating loading cycles, and occasionally very high loads on oarklocks, put significant strain on fittings and fasteners. As I looked at the coaming, I thought some solid reinforcement was in order around the oarlocks.
I designed some gussets, and cut them from solid mahogany, with the grain diagonal/in line with the hypotenuse of the gusset. I then cut out an ample scupper, which made the final piece look like a flying buttress to me.
I cut them on the bench-top bandsaw, and had a nice evening carving the edges while the kids watched a movie.
For installation, I drilled two 3/8" holes and epoxied in 3/8" diameter hardwood pins into the end-grain of the bottom of these gussets. Into the deck, I drilled matching holes for the these pins to enter. Along the coaming, I epoxied and filleted the buttresses.
The oak support piece, mahogany cap, and buttresses are installed as of tonight.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Jason
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
- Jason Builder
- Regular Contributor
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:05 pm
- Contact:
Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Ahoy Scamper!
SCAMP Skegs can be made by cutting out the skeg shape from 2 pieces of 3/4" material (solid wood or marine plywood) and then gluing those pieces together to get a 1.5" (38mm) thick skeg. These can then be epoxied and fiberglassed to seal them up strongly. For some reason, I wanted these ground engaging tools at the base of the boat, to be made from a solid piece of wood. Truth be told, amongst other reasons, I think that part of this desire to carve the skegs from solid pieces,was the difficulty in procuring and shaping a solid piece of hardwood to the shape of these skegs.
And so it was, that I went and visited the special remains of an ancient and large white oak tree that fell down on my parents' property when I was in college many years ago. The tree was huge, must've been 4 feet across at the trunk, and my Dad had a guy come in an mill the tree down right in the yard. We all used this stout tree's lumber for many projects over the years, and still there is a quantity of very very wide solid boards, and some nice thick ones, aging away. I went and looked through the wood and found a beauty 2"x8.5"x110" piece of solid white oak that had waited patiently for 25 years to become the skegs for the Argo.
SCAMP Skegs can be made by cutting out the skeg shape from 2 pieces of 3/4" material (solid wood or marine plywood) and then gluing those pieces together to get a 1.5" (38mm) thick skeg. These can then be epoxied and fiberglassed to seal them up strongly. For some reason, I wanted these ground engaging tools at the base of the boat, to be made from a solid piece of wood. Truth be told, amongst other reasons, I think that part of this desire to carve the skegs from solid pieces,was the difficulty in procuring and shaping a solid piece of hardwood to the shape of these skegs.
And so it was, that I went and visited the special remains of an ancient and large white oak tree that fell down on my parents' property when I was in college many years ago. The tree was huge, must've been 4 feet across at the trunk, and my Dad had a guy come in an mill the tree down right in the yard. We all used this stout tree's lumber for many projects over the years, and still there is a quantity of very very wide solid boards, and some nice thick ones, aging away. I went and looked through the wood and found a beauty 2"x8.5"x110" piece of solid white oak that had waited patiently for 25 years to become the skegs for the Argo.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Jason
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
-
- Regular Contributor
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:31 pm
Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
What a great way to incorporate some family history into the boat!
- dsimonson
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Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Oh, yeah! Those are stout!!
Cheers,
Dale
Cheers,
Dale
- Jason Builder
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Re: Building of SCAMP #349 "Argo" underway in Wisconsin, USA
Thanks for the feedback guys, Here are some photo's of the 5/8" UHMW cap on the solid white oak skegs. I also have the cabin top fiberglassed and the transom cap done....so I am now in for a bunch of sanding followed by painting/varnishing the deck and cabin.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Jason
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe
Builder of SCAMP#349 "Argo": Build log at http://www.argobuilder.com
Caretaker of these fine ships:
-SCAMP "Argo"
-1981 Compac 16 Pilothouse "Lillyanna"
-Old Towne 16' Canoe