Centerboard pin accuracy...Ooops!!!

[dndrich]

A simpler approach is to ream the hole in the board slightly large to accommodate a bit of inaccuracy. Since the sailing loads on the board are borne by the trunk itself, a bit of slop in the pin will do no harm. Don't make it more complicated than it is.

Interesting thought. But my brass bearings have minimal tolerances. Do I ream them out a bit? That might be tricky.

[Rob Hazard]

If you have brass bushings glued into your centerboard you could ease the fit by sanding the hole out with a dowel and some wet-or-dry sandpaper. We're not talking machine tolerances here; it's just a pivot pin. The hole could be 1/16" larger than the pin and still work fine!
Most of the working loads on a centerboard are sideways, and the board transfers them directly to the hull by prying on the trunk. You don't want any of that prying load to be exerted on the pin. That's not the pin's job. While you're sailing, the pin is mostly just keeping the board from dropping out of the boat.

[dndrich]

OK, well that is interesting, and I will do it!! That makes sense. I will offset it slightly as I have planned, but additionally will make it a bit looser internally. Good idea.

[dndrich]

OK, my last post on this issue was more than a year ago! I decided a slightly different strategy here. I went with 9/16 inch ID 3/4 inch OD bushings in the board, and made the hole true and square to the edge, not offset. Voila', the pin passed nicely and the board will work great. Problem solved.