Info request:How often does one need to access centerboard?

[Jason Builder]

Hello SCAMP sailors,

My SCAMP will be launched before winter or first thing next spring. The seat tops are done on my SCAMP and I am contemplating how to set up my centerboard cover. In reading posts here, I have gathered that it may be necessary to open the centerboard cover regularly to perform maintenance. Likewise, it appears that it is of value to have a centerboard pivot pin that is easily removable to facilitate the removal of the centerboard.

Your experience and feedback on the questions below would help me design my centerboard cover retention system, so thanks in advance for your feedback.

Please advise:

1) What happens that requires one to open the centerboard cover to work on the centerboard, and what type of maintenance is done from above through the centerboard cover?
2) How frequently do you find yourself opening the centerboard cover to perform the work referenced in question 1 above?
3) What situation would require the removal of the centerboard pivot pin?....and presumably the removal of the centerboard?
4) How frequently do you find yourself needing to remove the centerboard pivot pin to perform the maintenance referenced in item 3 above?

Again, many thanks in advance for any experience you can share regarding the questions above.

-Jason

post script: Considering the fact that the "centerboard" on a SCAMP is not centered on the boat, how about we call it an "off-centerboard", ha!

[Peter E]

Jason I have removed the center board cover three times. I have two screws to hold it down. A good seal is important as I found out or you will have water coming in.

I have never removed the center board except when first installing it.

The cover should be easily removed I keep a screw driver on the boat just for that purpose. Should the board get jammed and you are on the water that is your only option. If you ever need to change your center board rope It is much easier with the cover off. pete

[Brent65]

Jason,

Excellent questions which I cannot answer...hoping many other will chime in. But, I do have some thoughts on the issues.

On my next build (which has now begun, see building Hagoth link below) I plan to have a top gasket under the access plate to keep water out of the cockpit. I also plan to store a wooden batten under the access plate which I could use to dislodge small rocks that bind up the CB. The batten could be shoved downward to dislodge the debris out the bottom of the CB slot. I don't plan to use a bottom gasket like many others have done. I want debris to fall straight out the bottom and not be held up by the gasket. Maybe slower, but I'm fine with that. I promise you I'm not winning any races with my sailing abilities.

I feel the primary reason for the access plate is to free the CB. Maybe the second reason would be to replace the CB uphaul line. It seems removal of the CB would be rather infrequent and only to refinish or repair. I seems the removal of the CB pin would also be infrequent. But, stuff happens out there so having the ability to remove the pin on the beach makes good sense. There are several good CB pin retention systems out there (like your and Howards). I have yet another simple idea that I might try that would utilize two bolts to prevent the CB from backing out (think metal strap crossing over the CB) and a third bolt (in the center of the strap) to apply pressure to the head of the CB, effectively applying pressure to the CB O ring, keeping water from the ballast tank from draining out the CB hole.

Hope these thoughts are helpful

[Jason Builder]

Many thanks for the feedback Peter and Brent. I had been contemplating a hinged very quick opening system if the cover needed to be opened very frequently, every time out sailing for example. As it sounds like the need to access this area is more occasional than frequent, I will focus on a simple pinned system with a good snug seal.

Jason

[Brent65]

Jason,

I'm anxious to see what you come up with. Do please share.

[Jason Builder]

Will do, I should get to it over the next 4-5 weeks. -Jason

[PAR]

I've found it depends on the boat's size, as to how much access you need to the centerboard. I have a 23' ketch I built some decades back. It's used fairly regularly and the hoisting lanyard has been replaced twice in it's life, is likely to need replacement again, but other wise, the only occasions I've needed to open the case. In fact, the case is sealed and to repair some leading edge damage, I had to hoist the whole boat up several feet, to lower the board, drive out the pin, make repairs, etc.

Since I built this boat, my designs have evolved to include an easily removed case and pin assembly. My pin assembly doesn't penetrate the hull, the case or otherwise have a sealed hole that can leak.

This said, I have several smaller boats that have needed repairs on a much more frequent basis. It's really shoal here, so banging into stuff is pretty common. On my 16' pocket rocket, it seems I have the board out every year. Okay, scooting along at 16 knots and dragging the board over a rock, log, old sunken something or other is going to require some repairs. My other boats are considerably slower, but these too seem to get dinged fairly regularly, it's just the damage isn't as deep.

So, how often do you need access. My ketch has need access about every 12 years, but my smaller boats, except for the go fast scooter, maybe every other year. A Scamp has enough heft, that some damage will occur, if you bash something hard, though she's light enough that the board can bounce over most things, with little damage, particularly if the leading edge is well hardened.

In the end, I've discovered (the hard way) that if you don't prepare for the eventualities of repairs and maintenance, you can rest assured, you'll need access much sooner than later. If you're a skilled expletive innovator, maybe just seal it up and hope for the best. If you're like me, you'll want a well sealed, yet fairly easy way to get in there.

[Jason Builder]

Hi Everyone,

I built a centerboard case cap, made from a piece of Okuome plywood epoxied to a 3/4" (20mm) piece of mahogany, followed by a 1/16" (2mm) natural rubber gasket, backed by a 1/2" (12.5mm) mahogany strip. Six (6) stout stainless screws compress the mahogany and gasket together. Below is a photo of the dry-fit. I will epoxy-coat and finish the pieces. NOTE!:  The solid mahogany pieces that fit into the centerboard case are already tight fits.....I didn't want a loose fit with a large gasket,  thus the solid pieces are already tight and the gasket protrudes a very small amount, under 1/16" (1mm).  When inserted it is very tight.  I am considering various retention methods to hold this piece down. The force that need to be applied is vertical. Excess horizontal force from screws could pull the cap too far horizontally and expose a gap on the far side. A horizontal pin, or a properly-installed screw from the side could hold this cap in place without asserting too much horizontal force. I will report back on performance after the baby gets into the water.

[Bcbimmer]

Jason,

Have you tried this with the centreboard in place. Speaking from experience, I suspect it will be too thick at the bow end and will interfere when the board is up. My cap is very similar and I had to reduce the depth at that point.

Hopefully not but I would check

Cheers

Dan

[Jason Builder]

Hi Dan,

I have not raised the centerboard yet to see if there is interference with this centerboard case cap. I designed the depth based on eyeballing the sketch on the prints. My centerboard case cap protrudes into the centerboard case 0.9375" + .0625" + 0.5" = 1.5" down into the centerboard case. Perhaps I have some more planing and sanding of this piece in my future! I will advise of interference when I install the centerboard. Thanks for the heads up.

Jason