#70 - an amateur kit build

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Bcbimmer
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

David,

Not fixed in yet but it is held in the picture by screws through the hull planking. Looks crooked but sits on the same plane as the sole. I am planning to epoxy it in place using the screws to hold it while it dries. Then plan to pull the screws and fill the holes with epoxy before painting. Will do the same with back rest under veranda on stb side and small folding table/backrest on port side.

Dan
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Fitting the carlins - I used single piece 20 by 30mm yellow cedar and steamed them for an hour before installing. Bent to curve very well.
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Bow eye. I got the bronze bow eye from Tender Craft boats in Ontario. Got 3 in total and will use two on the transom for trailering etc. I think they were about $25 each.
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Bcbimmer
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

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More bow eye
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

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Final bow eye
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Strengthening the mast box - with the mast box alteration for the ramp, the mast is going to impact the forward side of the mast box as it slides in. I think the SCAMP camp fix was to add an additional thickness to the external surface of the box. I used the cutout piece from the mast slot on bulkhead 3 to reinforce the inside of the box
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knasman
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by knasman »

Dan,

Nice execution as always. Spreader clamps look darn usefull these days. Add those to the list.

When you build your mast, make sure your new piece doesn't interfere with the mast. The rake is defined in part by how it sits in the box. You are probably all over that, but I thought I'd mention it.

I haven't glued in my bookshelves yet and I'm not putting screws through my hull to fix them. Your spreader clamps might be a better solution than the cleat stock wedges I was thinking about.
Keith Nasman
SCAMP Zephyr #161
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Thanks Keith,

You had me worried for a minute. I had recalled the mast leaning (rake?) towards the stern on the plans sheet but had not gone back to confirm that prior to installing the doubler. Fortunately my memory was correct so the mast should clear the doubler.

My clamps are mostly cheapies from Canadian Tire and I get them when they are 70% off so they range from $3-15. Mostly in the $6-8 range. The plastic ones all have a removable end piece so you can convert them to spreaders.

I was having a hard time trying to figure out how to clamp the shelf to the hull without the screws. Kind of sits at an odd angle and on the sloping surface of the planks so figured it would keep sliding away if pressure was applied with clamps. Thought that as long as I removed the screws and filled the holes with epoxy that water penetration should not be an issue. Am I wrong about that?

Currently working on solving some paint/epoxy issues. Trying some cures for the non-cure and I'll post the end (hopefully happy) results after the latest layer dries.

Cheers,

Dan
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dsimonson
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by dsimonson »

Hey Dan, and Keith,

I'm in the same situation as Keith, outside of hull is already painted! I had the same issue that'll happen here, installing the aft-most seat top cleats. When I applied outward pressure with wedged sticks, the cleat just slid up the raked transom. I imagine we'll have to make appropriate-sized blocking to wedge under the carlins, and front-to-back position blocking, then we'll be able to apply outward pressure for clamping pressure and not have the thing slither around on it's slippery glue. A lot of farting around, just to have saved filling a few holes before paint! Leaving your boat upright as long as possible is making a lot of sense to me, now!
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by mrogers »

A trick I used in trim work on architectural projects is to hold stuff in place with hot melt until the real glue goes off. I have not used it in boat work but from what you guys are encountering I may. What I have done is put a few dabs of hot melt right on the faying surface with the glue. Thinking that loosing that small amount of final glue surface is worth the benefit of clamp-less gluing. It depends on how much pressure you need. Perhaps instead a few dabs around the perimeter to keep thing from sliding around and apply pressure with clamps. It's kind of hard to clean up exposed hot melt so it would have to be somewhere that a little bead of glue is not objectionable. ..... I'm just thinking out loud here, experiment and let us know how it works.
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