#70 - an amateur kit build
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
Good morning.
Doing a few odd bits and pieces while waiting for parts. Do not want to put port side seat track in until seat is done so can make sure it runs true. The only place in town that sold stainless ball bearings shut down so waiting for mail order. Also ordered some bronze Bow eyes (going to use on transom as well for tie downs and lifting points) from Tender Craft boats in Ontario. Best find, at least I hope so when they arrive, was some fixed bronze portlights from Trinity Portholes in Exeter (England). My cabin sides are taller so I ordered 18cm portholes with 7 inch glass. These folks also have 6 inch glass opening portholes for a good price. With backing plates and shipping they were over $100 cheaper than the smaller (6" glass) ones from any of the US suppliers I could find. Will post pictures of all once they arrive. Back to fiddling with my centreboard box cover - regular length drill bits won't get all the way through the box and cleats. Had to get a 12 inch bit - only $18 and a trip into town (how to kill 90 minutes) Was reading the posts on Howard's boom tent. I suspect my increased cabin height is going to make a production tent a bit short but who thinks of these things at the time you merry hack the roof off.
Cheers,
Dan
Doing a few odd bits and pieces while waiting for parts. Do not want to put port side seat track in until seat is done so can make sure it runs true. The only place in town that sold stainless ball bearings shut down so waiting for mail order. Also ordered some bronze Bow eyes (going to use on transom as well for tie downs and lifting points) from Tender Craft boats in Ontario. Best find, at least I hope so when they arrive, was some fixed bronze portlights from Trinity Portholes in Exeter (England). My cabin sides are taller so I ordered 18cm portholes with 7 inch glass. These folks also have 6 inch glass opening portholes for a good price. With backing plates and shipping they were over $100 cheaper than the smaller (6" glass) ones from any of the US suppliers I could find. Will post pictures of all once they arrive. Back to fiddling with my centreboard box cover - regular length drill bits won't get all the way through the box and cleats. Had to get a 12 inch bit - only $18 and a trip into town (how to kill 90 minutes) Was reading the posts on Howard's boom tent. I suspect my increased cabin height is going to make a production tent a bit short but who thinks of these things at the time you merry hack the roof off.
Cheers,
Dan
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
The centreboard cap - how to make a simple job complicated
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Last edited by Bcbimmer on Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
Centreboard cap cont.
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
And more
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
And finally
Cheers,
Dan
Cheers,
Dan
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
Dan I wondered if you put a very thin silicon gasket on the underside of the lip before you screwed the cover down.
I see that I will have to put the center board in place before making the cap. Thanks for posting this.
Pete hull 52 Just waiting for spring....
I see that I will have to put the center board in place before making the cap. Thanks for posting this.
Pete hull 52 Just waiting for spring....
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
Peter,
I haven't decided what to use yet. May try it with nothing and add a thin gasket later if a significant problem. Also considered adding a gasket like that used on the plywood hatches which we know are waterproof. Just a small rubber tube fit into a slot. Could not do that with the standard configuration because the inboard edge of the centreboard box is too thin. My seat rail adds an inch to the thickness so I could route a groove for the gasket if I get ambitious. Would need to do that before gluing down the seat tops though.
May be a lot of fuss about nothing. Here we are worrying about stopping a little splashing through the centreboard cap in a boat that will be its most fun in windy and choppy conditions when I suspect there may be a bit other water spraying around.
Cheers,
Dan
I haven't decided what to use yet. May try it with nothing and add a thin gasket later if a significant problem. Also considered adding a gasket like that used on the plywood hatches which we know are waterproof. Just a small rubber tube fit into a slot. Could not do that with the standard configuration because the inboard edge of the centreboard box is too thin. My seat rail adds an inch to the thickness so I could route a groove for the gasket if I get ambitious. Would need to do that before gluing down the seat tops though.
May be a lot of fuss about nothing. Here we are worrying about stopping a little splashing through the centreboard cap in a boat that will be its most fun in windy and choppy conditions when I suspect there may be a bit other water spraying around.
Cheers,
Dan
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
Sliding seat
The bearings finally arrived and I installed the second seat rail. Mostly finished the seat itself other that a small lip that will fit on the front of the curve to hold the next board for the bed slats - more on that later
The bearings finally arrived and I installed the second seat rail. Mostly finished the seat itself other that a small lip that will fit on the front of the curve to hold the next board for the bed slats - more on that later
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
Sliding seat continued
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build
My British Portlights arrive
Cheers,
Dan
Cheers,
Dan
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