#70 - an amateur kit build

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Peter E
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Peter E »

Got any old lead batteries around. They have sheet lead in them but be very very careful battery acid is nasty stuff. If you neutralize the acid then you only need a hammer. Wheel weights .Old roof vents probably the best.

Now if you really can't get lead at a reasonable price a sheet of plate steel encapsulated with epoxy inside the rudder.
JohnT
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by JohnT »

Query: The kit includes routed marks on the transom and the bow transom. The manual goes into some length on using these marks to bevel the edges of the transom but makes no reference to beveling the bow transom. I assume that the bow transom also needs to be beveled, but since it is easier to cut wood away than to add it back, I thought I'd ask before I started planing. Since the bow transom marks are on the inside and the bow transom needs to be beveled to the outside, I assume it is also necessary to transfer the marks to the outside face of the bow transom. Right?
Bcbimmer
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Thanks for all the help on the lead question. Checked out some of the suppliers listed. $35 of lead is over $100 by the time shipping and brokers factored in. Have word in with a couple of roofing companies for scraps but no bits yet. Tire weights likely the best suggestion if I had the nerve to pour. Found a guy on the internet that is local and has a hobby collecting old lead and making fishing weights. Says he can make me any size and shape I want for $2 per lb so am going to give that a try. Will get 2 10lb wts so have room to adjust a bit.

I had mentioned looking for locking hatches for the vertical bulkhead. West Marine (they are in their catalogue) can get some in by Nuova Rade, external size 14 X 24". Anybody have any experience with these? Special order, takes about three weeks, so hate to wait and have them no good.

Simeon wondered about the stability of my sanding unit. Upper cyclone weighs very little and is attached firmly to the Festool as shown below. I cut out a scrap of ply from the kit to fit the top of the Festool which is designed to clip their boxes onto. The green clips slip into the slots and I made little clips to hold the other side so plywood does not budge. Used bottom of old cracked bucked bolted to the plywood to hold the cyclone bucket. Drilled a couple of holes in the bottom of the bucket to break the seal so you can get the two buckets apart easily.

Hopefully someone can answer Johns question before I get to that stage.

cheers,

Dan
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simeoniii
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by simeoniii »

Dan,

Thanks for your great explanation on the cyclone unit. I had thought it was just sitting there. Now it makes great sense and I'll have to think about that solution myself.

As to John's question about the B-1/B-8 transom bevels. Yes, the B-1 needs to be done like the B-8, transferring the bevel. Sequentially I should have put the explanation on page 38 (B-1) instead of just on page 42. I'll see if I can rectify that on the next manual update.

For B-8, the description and photos 54-56 on page 42 are fairly clear.

On B-1, the top athwart bevel is 3mm on the aft edge. On the sides, the bevels are on the forward edge, 4mm for the upper one, 5mm for the mid, and 6mm for the lower, or garboard. See photos 37 & 38 in v1.3 manual, as well as Plans Sheet-3, B-1.

The bevel front/back positions are reversed on B-8 and the bevel amounts different. See Plans Sheet-4 for B-8 bevel locations and dimensions.

I hope this is a clear enough explanation. It's obvious that John and yourself are following the recommendation to go through the manual from start to finish (and repeat ;)

Enjoy your builds. Those precious months go by so quickly; savor them :lol:

Simeon
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JohnT
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by JohnT »

On smearing epoxy: In my precoating adventures over the years, I've used chip brushes and plastic spreaders, but my current implement of choice is a white form roller sold in big box stores for "enamel and cabinets". These are, of course, disposable, but getting them off the roller handle is pretty messy. The first requirement for playing with epoxy is a box of nitrile gloves. While it is possible to use them more than once, at some point they get stuck together or torn, so there is no great shortage of unwearable, used gloves. If you insert the used roller in a used glove, it is possible to grasp the whole mess with a paper towel, pull the roller off the frame, and disgard the roller/glove/towel with minimal mess. It is worthwhile to scrub down the handle with alcohol (while wearing gloves) which will facilitate roller removal in the future.
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simeoniii
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by simeoniii »

Great hint. I'll try that soon. Thanks!
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Bcbimmer
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Good morning.

Like John, I am using cheap disposable rollers. I just pull them off the handle with the gloves that I am wearing when I am done. Just because I have nothing better to do I have been sticking the used ones in a pile on a wood scrap, they get quite warm as they harden, and perhaps I'll auction off the used roller tower as folk art when I am done.

Went from no lead to lots of lead. The fellow I found on the internet that makes lead weights came through with nicely poured weights that I ended up using. A client then dropped off 30lbs of old lead stacks from his roofing company and another client dropped off 8 lbs of diving weights. So if anybody in the Victoria area is building and needs lead, I have at least enough for another build. I'll detail the process with lots of pictures. If it is too much detail let me know and I can back off. Also will ask some fiberglassing questions questions at the end. Will put questions that I hope to get an answer to in CAPITAL letters
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Bcbimmer
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Centerboard lead part 2
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Bcbimmer
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

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Centerboard lead part 3
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Re: #70 - an amateur kit build

Post by Bcbimmer »

Centerboard lead part 4

Couple of fiberglass questions. DOES THE FIBERGLASS CLOTH HAVE TO GO ON TO BARE WOOD OR WILL IT ADHEAR TO SANDED EPOXY. I am asking because I managed to epoxy both sides of bulkhead 1 and it is recommended that the outer surface of the bow be fiberglassed. So sand it smooth or sand it off?

For the rudder and centerboard. DO THE ENTIRE SURFACES GET GLASSED OR JUST THE CONTOURED AREAS. MENTIONS CLAMPING THEM IN A VICE TO FIBERGLASS SO THAT IMPLIES NOT GLASSING THE TOP (FLAT) PORTIONS. I HAVE ALWAYS HAD THE IMPRESSION THAT THE CLOTH WILL NOT STICK WELL GOING AROUND SHARP CORNERS SUCH A THE BOTTOM AND TRAILING EDGE OF CENTERBOARD. SHOULD THOSE BE ROUNDED FIRST?
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