Continuation of posting on page 13

Back to the centerboard trunk. I have still not placed the outboard side of the trunk in position. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole through the forward cleat for the up-haul line. Measured the distance from the centerboard pin hole in the centerboard to the upper corner of the board where it will sit when fully retracted and placed hole accordingly. Drilled 1/8 inch pilot hole first then used forstner bit from each side.

Dan -

An excellent solution. I too was puzzled when it came to that stage on SCAMP #1.
It was the day before first launch and of course the trunk was only accessible from the top.

Like you, I had one end flared on a 2 - 3" piece which I inserted in through the trunk side where there was a correctly sized recess for the flare, liberally coated with 5-min epoxy glue. The channel was likewise saturated with glue. After it had set up, I trimmed the forward end of the tube proud by about 3/16". I had also perviously placed a recess on that side. Then, backing the aft end with a ball-peen hammer head and using a similar hammer on the other end, was able to more-or-less flare the forward part of the tube. We used a copper pipe that was about 1/4" I.D.

Needless to say, on my build I'm going to use your more elegant technique!

Cheers,
Simeon

A little trick with copper. Flare one end as above then heat or anneal the copper on the other end. (red hot then quench with water) This softens the copper. Pace the copper in the hole and using a tapered punch on the straight end and holding back on the tapered end, tap lightly until the copper starts to flare ,then use the ball peen hammer to finish the flare. As you work the copper it gets hard again. Don't forget to taper the wood under the flare. You can coat the copper after sanding with you wifes clear nail polish. It's good to get her involved hee hee.

Thanks guys. Will have to try the annealing bit next time I use copper tubing. July was a right off as far as building goes but now getting back at it. Finished fiberglassing the top and bottom of the mast box. Installed the bushings for the centerboard pin and epoxied the outboard side of the centerboard case in place. Will post photos in near future.
QUESTION on the transom. There is a doubler in the center and then comments on doublers for a motor mount on the port side and for a boarding ladder on starboard. Any reason, other than a slight increase in weight, not to double the entire transom? Just appeals to me from an appearance point of view vs a bunch of edges showing.

Cheers,

Dan

I think weight would be the answer there.

That is exactly what I did,doubled the transom. 1/2" and 1/4" for a 3/4" transom. I won't be racing so the little extra weight won't matter. It made it simpler for me.

I used a lot of painters tape for the fillets that worked slick. I got that idea from you ,so thanks. I looked over how you did the mast trunk and I made a slight change. I put the starboard and the port side on first and fillet the insides. The forward piece was put on last and then filleted. That way I could see what I was doing. Some times my big hands were a little contorted but it finally worked out.

The smaller the boat the greater the effect of any amount of unnecessary additional weight. If you want to build a pig, start by adding a bit here and a little there...
Lesson learned the hard way!
Cheers!

Some photos of glassing the top and bottom of the mast box

Next up were the centerboard pin bushings. The fitting and gluing of the bushings was all done prior to gluing in the outboard case.

Here is where I made things complicated. For whatever reason, my carefully lined up holes did not line up so I over-drilled the hole on the outboard case and doubler. Hopefully my fix makes sense in the series of photos.