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Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:28 pm

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Posts: 541
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Filling the holes - continued from previous page


Attachments:
File comment: I sealed the bottom of the holes with clear packing tape. Had visions of the tape coming loose as the epoxy set and dumping all over the seats so clamped a piece of plywood over the tape
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File comment: Holes filled with epoxy thickened with fillet blend.
DSCF3535.jpg
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File comment: Levelled the deck prior to filling the holes so pour would sit evenly. Had to do in two sections.
DSCF3539.jpg
DSCF3539.jpg [ 50.38 KiB | Viewed 998 times ]

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Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:39 pm

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Location: Victoria, B.C.

Drilling out the epoxy


Attachments:
File comment: Large hole drilled out of epoxy with Forstner bit for base of rod holder. About a 1/8 inch rim of solid epoxy
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File comment: Rod holder base in place
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File comment: Rod holder. These sit between the transom and the end of the coaming where the deck is flat. You can see the filled and sanded holes for the aft cleat in the background.
DSCF3544.jpg
DSCF3544.jpg [ 48.6 KiB | Viewed 997 times ]

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Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:45 pm

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Location: Victoria, B.C.

And more


Attachments:
File comment: Drilling jig used to drill 1/4 inch holes for cleat bolts
DSCF3547.jpg
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File comment: Drilled first hole then positioned bolt in hole to mark position of second bolt in epoxy. Then removed cleat and drilled second hole. Marked each cleat as went along in case they differ.
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File comment: Final result
DSCF3553.jpg
DSCF3553.jpg [ 26.99 KiB | Viewed 997 times ]

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Mon Jan 20, 2014 11:05 pm

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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:12 am
Posts: 541
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Attaching the deck - it can be done with one guy but it is awkward.

I think this deserves a reward so time for a single malt. A client bought me a bottle of Aberlour A'bunadh. This stuff is a cut above their regular which is damn good on its own. Smooth as silk, no burn, which is amazing as it is 60.4% alcohol so don't want much.

Here's to you all,

Cheers,

Dan


Attachments:
File comment: Had to figure out a way to hold the deck sort of in place so I could drop it down once the glue was in place without smearing everything. Hung the deck in its support frame with straps from the ceiling and mast ramp. Applied clear epoxy to all untreated wood surfaces and then applied thickened epoxy to all surfaces. Slowly dropped the deck down on the straps until it was about an inch above the glue, removed the frame from the stern deck and snapped the rod holder and stern cleat plates into position. Then removed the front frame piece and snapped the middle and bow cleat plates down into place. Just like fitting lego blocks together and nothing smeared.
DSCF3550.jpg
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File comment: Started at middle cleat position and went fore and aft, side to side, screwing deck down. All the old screw holes aligned perfectly so very easy to do. Wiped down all edges where glue oozed, inside and out
DSCF3551.jpg
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File comment: Glue wanted to ooze out some of the screw holes so a small piece of plastic was placed under each wood washer to allow removal later
DSCF3552.jpg
DSCF3552.jpg [ 30.37 KiB | Viewed 996 times ]

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Sat Jan 25, 2014 4:55 pm

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Location: Victoria, B.C.

Adding the cabin sides - Mine are 4 inches taller than the norm as I raised the roof by the same amount


Attachments:
File comment: I was a bit confused as to how the cabin sides were supposed to go on. The plans show them dropping below the deck and being screwed to the carlins from the inside but I seem to recall reading one of the posts saying that was incorrect. The notches on the bulkheads and the height of the side seem to go along with just dropping them down the thickness of the deck. I cut a notch in the front of the sidewall where it passes up onto the foredeck.
DSCF3555.jpg
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File comment: Cabin side dropped between deck and cleats attached to bulkheads
DSCF3556.jpg
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File comment: Bottom of the sidewall is even with the bottom of the deck.
DSCF3558.jpg
DSCF3558.jpg [ 28.79 KiB | Viewed 949 times ]

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Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:12 pm

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Location: Victoria, B.C.

Cutting out the porthole openings


Attachments:
File comment: Made myself a crude circle cutter. The rotary cutter is screwed to the wood scrap from underneath and a wood dowel went through the centre of the jig and the cabin side. It was measured to fit in the centre of the space between bulkheads 3 & 4 inside the overhang.
DSCF3559.jpg
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File comment: First pass went half way through the wood. Turned it over and attached jig to dowel from other side and repeat process. On the second pass I left little 1/8 inch tabs in 4 quadrants to hold the centre in place. Cut the tabs out by hand, quickly sanded and was done.
DSCF3560.jpg
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File comment: Side in place held by screws into cleats. Porthole is 7" glass and 10 3/4 total diameter. Would probably have used 6 inch but these were far cheaper than the smaller ones available in North America. (Details on portholes are at bottom of page 26.) Picture makes the cabin side look quite tall and blocky. Proportions actually look much better than shown.
DSCF3561.jpg
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Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:22 pm

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Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:55 am
Posts: 631
Location: Port Ludlow, Washington

Well done Dan! Your approach to the cabin sides was right on. A good glue and fillet job will finish them off. You are really starting crank on the build. Thanks for all the great documentation and great "outside-the-box" solutions that you continue to come up with

Soon you will be on the water. Attached is a shot I took from Noddy last Thursday

I've had my bronze portlights in (temporarily) for about 4 months and I'm just now getting around to permanently adding the inside trim rings. I've been waiting to source the right acorn nuts for the the bronze machine screws. My screws are 10-24 thread

I finally found them at this source http://www.mcmaster.com/#acorn-nuts/=qev4ps


Attachments:
File comment: Inspiration shot for current builders. The SCAMP is so quiet as it ghosts along that wildlife seems to accept her as one with nature
P1230016-GB Heron.jpg
P1230016-GB Heron.jpg [ 238.31 KiB | Viewed 938 times ]

_________________
Simeon
Voyaging with Noddy, #11


Last edited by simeoniii on Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:45 pm

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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:12 am
Posts: 541
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Simeon,

Thanks for that. Good to see Noddy is getting lots of use. Let me know if your nut source does not pan out. I went looking for brass half round to copy your idea and actually found a small foundry in Victoria that stocks it in all sizes. They also have a great selection of SB fasteners. I had one of my portholes with me to measure for the bolts and they were astounded that I could get two 7" portholes with backing plates for just over $300. (I think that must be about $20 US these days). They have Acorn nuts in both a high and low profile although I do not know what the thread count is. I will check when I pick them up next week and let you know.

Cheers,

Dan



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Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:52 am

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Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:28 am
Posts: 67

What are your rod holders, how big are they.



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Wed Feb 05, 2014 7:22 pm

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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:12 am
Posts: 541
Location: Victoria, B.C.

David,

The rod holders are Berkleys, $20 each from West Marine. They sit about 5 inches high. Used a lot on Kayaks because of their size.

Cheers,

Dan


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DSCF3582.jpg
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