I can't envision that happening but of course it is a possibility. The epoxy bond is very strong.

Every time I sail I visually inspect the pin and and also during the sail through the clear inspection port. It would be very easy to spot if it started to back out.

I would be reluctant to put a big gob of epoxy over the hex head as a light torque with a wrench is useful for backing the assembly away from the case when you remove it to lift out the board.

Anyone have any thoughts on this issue?

"If it can happen it will happen sooner or later"...somebody said that... consider bending-up a 'hat' type retainer to trap the bolt from some thin (.025") stainless or other corrosion resistant alloy which would be secured with the three screws used to anchor the pin assembly to the case.
I'd like to say "thank you" for the fine job you're doing posting your build, it is helping me develop a list of ideas for my future build in alum.

I had wondered about just using a pin without the hex head. Everything stays the same but you cut off the hex head as well and the end of the pin is covered by a plate the same as the one on the outboard side except it is just screwed in and sealed by silicone instead of epoxy. In theory it could still back out if the plate let loose which it could in the current set-up as well. You would need to tap the end of the pin to allow one to thread a bolt into it for removal , perhaps tap both ends so it would be impossible to put the pin in backwards. I suppose you would want to seal the threaded holes with wax to keep them from corroding until needed. This is coming from a guy who knows nothing about the effects on seawater on these structures and perhaps likes to over think things. Not sure how difficult it would be to break the silicone seal on the cover plate without the epoxied hex head to torque on. Also loses the o-ring seal.

Cheers,

dan

Centreboard pivot pin- you asked for suggestions as to how to get the hole for this perfectly perpendicular to the board. How about using either a plunge drill (less common) or a plunge router (more common) with an appropriate bit in it? I really enjoy reading about your SCAMP build.
Nick from NZ

I confused about the details of a centerboard down haul? I have 25# in #24's board, but a down haul still may be useful in the event of a capsize. MayFly goes in the water tomorrow!!! Johnny

Johnny,

Good luck on your "splash" tomorrow. I'm hoping for a fair breeze for MayFly's first outing.

The CB downhaul issue centers around keeping the board from flopping back into the trunk in the event of a turtle capsize. We've proven that the prototype SCAMP is still rightable even if the board is not reachable but having the board to hang on to is preferable. On faster centerboard sailboats (especially cats and high performance planing hulls) a downhaul is needed to keep the board from creeping up at high speeds but this issue is not likely for our SCAMP.

Again, best wishes for tomorrow. It's been fun following your progress.

Simeon

I just wanted to add to what Simeon said. We think the inclusion of a CB downhaul is a smart idea and we're recommending it, but since we've not yet detailed a perfectly elegant way of adding a downhaul in the plans, we're strongly recommending the righting lines + stirrup system described in the manual. SCAMP has so far proven quite easy to right after a simple knockdown, but if she turns 180º and the board retracts, righting might require a righting line or some other assistance.

One of the things that makes SCAMP special is that, setup properly, she has proven to be self-rescuable even from a 180º capsize. Nonetheless, capsizes involve exposure and other potential risks so it's important that you sail knowing a capsize is possible and have a proven plan for recovery. —EDS

I have had an idea for quite awhile regarding the installation of the centerboard pin. I had intended to make some drawings to better describe what I was thinking about before sharing it, but since the discussion has gone in that direction I will give you the thumbnail version. Instead of modifying a bolt my intent was to use a piece of 1/2" SS shaft (readily available). The bushing stack up would be as previously described. The difference is that on both exterior longitudinal panels I would install a garboard drain fitting (like the one spec'd for the water ballast tank) inline with the CB pivot pin. This allows the pin to be installed or removed from either the inboard or outboard ends. It also facilitates installation of the board by allowing the CB along with nylon washers or whatever to be lined up with a tapered drift pin inserted from one end. Once everything is in place and aligned the CB pin is driven in from the opposite direction pushing out the drift pin but keeping everything on the pivot axis aligned. I will post drawings if I ever get around to making them.

Hello,

Some updates on #70. Centerboard trunk was on hold pending washers kindly sent by Simeon. Distance shipped as the crow flies 40 miles. Time to US border 1 day. Border to Victoria first class mail 14 days! Got a few things accomplished in the meantime. Had mentioned the thought of insetting bushings into the centerboard to try and keep width of centerboard housing down. Went ahead and did so before thinking not really a good idea to have minimal clearance on sides of board. Looks cool though.

Next came, and went, new hatches for bulkhead 3. I was looking for lockable hatches and the only ones I could find were the Nuova Rade ones from West Marine. Went to the store and found were special order, 3-4 weeks delivery and a $60 special order fee on top. They suggested I order online as there would be no $60 fee. Well, since I am in a Canadian store I assume will be shipped through Canadian arm. If you order from this company in the USA, shipping is free and no brokerage fee. If you order online from Canada, shipping not free and nowhere do they say that it is an international order. So 7 weeks later, the hatches arrive, tossed in a box after being removed from their original packaging. The hatches themselves are very nice, good workmanship, very strong hinges with a nice feature that lets them hold various open positions. The lock is a push button than anyone can push in to lock the hatch and then you use the key to open them. I could just see somebody pushing in the lock without me having the key so back they went. Never did get a response from customer service about how to return them so back to the local store. No hatches and no $45 shipping and $58 border fee. Bottom line - do not use mail order from this company in Canada.
End of sad story - went to another marine supplier as now grumpy about WM and got new Tempress hatches for upright and seats. Got cam latches as seemed more reliable. Should have done this 2 months ago.