SCAMP Camp #1

[dsimonson]

Wow! Awesome, Keith, looking really good.

Not much progress over here: I've been getting materials organized, searching for wood, lead, buying epoxy, talking friends and family into lending tools and ripping stock, etc. Lots of prepping but I haven't laid one inch of actual fillet yet!

Hey, is anyone going to be at the PT Wooden Boat Festival? I've managed to talk my lovely little lady (Chris) into coming down for it, next weekend, and hope to connect again with any of you that will be there. I know Howard and John will be, and I'm assuming Simeon will still be beavering away on his boat. What about you local guys?Bob, Lloyd, Eric, Scott and Jason? Any chance you'll be around? I'm looking forward to seeing you all again. (just can't stay away!!)

Cheers,
Dale

[knasman]

I'm trying to swing going to the Festival. At this late date, accomodations will be the issue, at least for Kerrie. I'd be happy curling up in Simeon's SCAMP, although I bet he's working into the wee hours

Last I talked with Eric, he'll be crewing on the Adventuress for the weekend so I'm sure we can catch up with him there.

Keith

[knasman]

Waterline scribing issues!

On the trailer the boat is level side to side within a 1/16th. I adjusted the trailer tongue up and down until bulkhead 3 was plumb. I tried the water in the clear tubing method but it seemed indecisive, maybe the tubing was too narrow.

My second attempt was with a cat toy laser pointer. I set up a little "A" frame step ladder and clamped a level on the side. Jason drew the waterline position on the stem. The point at which the DWL crosses the garboard-bottom joint is 6cm forward of the transom according to plans sheet 7. If I lined up the laser with the forward point and swing it aft, it ends up three inches high at the transom.

Maybe I'm off on both objects being level by just enough in opposite directions??? Maybe I shouldn't worry about the laser being level, pick my stem and transom points and just go with it? Looking for some moral support

BTW, I WILL be in PT for the Festival. Kerrie will be opting out but Kyle will be joining me. We will be winging it for sleeping arrangements. Maybe someone will let us throw our sleeping bags on their foredeck.

[BobT]

For those of us who want to build a birds mouth mast, the NWSWB is offering a course to do just that. Here's the latest I got from Linda yesterday:

Here is the latest info Bob: Date: 10/20-10/21Time: 9-5 Location: McPherson Bldg.Instructor: Bruce Blatchley Cost: $250 (this does not include material; cost of material TBD) I’ve added your name to the list and you can call the office with payment. Thank you - Linda Linda TolfNorthwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding

[knasman]

Fiberglassing went better than I thought. The prep took longer than expected (doesn't it always!). I was really nervous about the fast hardener kicking off too quickly, but that didn't give me trouble. It's actually quite enjoyable squeegeeing the extra resin around. I'd advise getting that fillet between the garboard and plank two done prior. The other thing I learned is that you trim the fiberglass to about 1/2 to 1 inch and then make sure that the fiberglass is wet out the while way. Then later, when the epoxy has partially hardened, you can just slice it off with a razor blade. It cuts like butter just like I remember Scott or Jason saying.

Transom 'glass went on in a separate step allowing me to double up on the glass going onto the bottom transom joint.

I used graphite in the epoxy for abrasion resistance and to darken it up in preparation for my dark paint. I switched from low nap to a foam roller. The foam made a much nicer surface but the only ones I could get were 1/2 thick. I had two of them start smokin' on me with all that epoxy soaked up (not to mention wasted epoxy).

So, I think I'm ready for the finish sanding on the bottom. One more fill coat on the transoms and plank fillets up next.

[knasman]

Some shots after two fill coats on bottom.

[julie]

I used graphite in the epoxy for abrasion resistance and to darken it up in preparation for my dark paint. I switched from low nap to a foam roller. The foam made a much nicer surface but the only ones I could get were 1/2 thick. I had two of them start smokin' on me with all that epoxy soaked up (not to mention wasted epoxy).

I've been on a reading-everything-about-graphite-I-can-find binge and I've read that paint has a difficult time adhering to a graphite surface, and that it'll be prone to chipping. I have absolutely no personal experience on this, so if you do end up painting it, I'd love to know how it worked for you. Any issues with graphite zits?

I'm in limbo with finding decent epoxy rollers. I've used Wooster's Epoxy Glide Rollers (1/4" nap) but I really didn't like them, and I've had the same issue with super-hot foam rollers that soak up all of the epoxy. But I LOVE the finish they provide. Do share with the rest of us if you find a good compromise.

Love the boat, keep up the solid progress!

[JohnT]

I painted over a graphite bottom with Petit primer and paint. After 10 years, the paint has gotten chalky, but is still adhering.

[Monies]

We make the graphite bottom VERY black and use that for the bottom paint. We have actually not recoated anything yet and Mike's boats all get beat up because of shallow water we usually sail in. If we were to do so it is with more graphite, not paint. He just touches up the dings if they expose the wood or come off, but he says that just isn't happening.

About rollers, Mike hates the expensive ones they sell for epoxy, and yes, he has used them to try out. He buys a $3 white nap roller on a plastic center. They are 9 inches long and he cuts them in half, getting two 4 inch ones.

Jackie Monies (for Mike)

[knasman]

Skeg Pattern

I worked out the skeg pattern tonight from some scrap 1/4in ply that I had around. First I rough cut the curve of the bottom. Then propped the pencil up on a block to make sure it was marking an unbroken line. I cut to this line with the jig saw and took it back to the boat for a test fit. Satisfied with the close fit, I laid out the pattern from sheet seven on the plans. I decided to taper the front down to about 1/4 at the bow end. I sprung a batten for the forward section. The middle section is a straight line. Then I hand drew the curves aft.

My son found a place in Seattle that sells UHMW plastic (in black even) which I will cut strips to go on the skegs. I think this is the stuff Howard was mentioning that is used on dogsled runners. Extremely abrasion resistant.